Let’s face it: There are a lot of sub-par and average burgers out there. It takes a special place to turn the common burger into a near-religious experience. Luckily, for West Michigan burger aficionados, we have Fat Boy.

With a name like Fat Boy, how can you go wrong? The name is fitting. There’s little on the menu to satisfy the dieter or vegan. And there is nothing fancy about Fat Boy, an institution in the Cheshire Neighborhood that has a new lease on life after closing for a short time. Under new owners Matt and Jill Urbane, Fat Boy is even better than it was before it closed for a short time.

I’ve been going to Fat Boy since I was a kid growing up on the Northeast side of Grand Rapids. My friend and I would ride our bikes to the restaurant for a burger and chocolate malt. While the iconic Fat Boy neon sign is the same, the restaurant has gone through some changes since the Urbanes took over. It is cleaner, there’s no smoking and the decor has been updated.

But the burgers are still top-notch, fries served piping hot and chocolate malts just as sweet and creamy as I remember. The burgers are simple: More the Mr. Fables-like smashed patty variety than the huge gourmet burgers found at a place like Stella’s (which is, by the way, my favorite burger in West Michigan). Fat Boy burgers are flavorful, greasy and delicious. Most of the burgers run about five bucks, so it’s a great place to grab an inexpensive meal.

On a recent visit, I had the double cheeseburger with ketchup, mustard and extra pickle. It was cooked to greasy perfection with a perfectly grilled bun, oozing cheese and tons of flavor. The fries were hot and fresh. There are a few specialty burgers to try as well, including the Fat Boy burger with green olives, cheddar, mayonnaise, lettuce and tomato ($4.99) and the Blue Burger with cheddar, shaved ham, blue cheese dressing, lettuce, tomato and onion.

While I would highly recommend trying the burgers and fries, Fat Boy also has a solid breakfast selection. Most of the items on the breakfast menu are of the greasy spoon variety — heavy on eggs, meat and potatoes.

For many of us who grew up on the Northeast side, Fat Boy is a classic. And despite the changes in ownership and a few menu tweaks, it remains a rock-solid contender for the unofficial title of Best Burger in Grand Rapids. Yes it is that good. And yes, if you haven’t tried it, you should.

Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you burgers with endless fries and malts!

While the Electric Cheetah is known for great, local food, they kick it back to the 50s every Wednesday night. For $12.50, diners can receive one burger, unlimited regular or sweet potato fries, and an assortment of ice cream malts. Being the sweet-tooth I am, I took every advantage of this opportunity that I could.

I started out with a rich, chocolate malt. I expected it to be stirred and ready for me to drink, but was pleasantly surprised when I saw that I had to do some work. At first I was curious as to why, but then I realized it — the restaurant wanted us to see what was so good about these malts…thick ice cream, great-tasting syrups…what a great combination.

When my burger and fries came, I dove right in. The sweet potato fries were paired with parmesan buttermilk and garlic dressings, which were a perfect complement to the well-seasoned fries. We added their dill dressing into the mix later on, which offered a more flavorful alternative. The fries were perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned, and perfectly…perfect.

By that time, I had forgotten all about the actual entree I had ordered — the burger! Served on a fairly large bun, I topped mine with tomatoes and swiss cheese. It was great with the meal; not too heavy, and not over-burdening with a ton of flavor either.

I was amazed with the amount of food we got for that little of price. By the time I had finished eating, my $12.50 bill was made of one burger, two orders of sweet potato fries and three malts (chocolate, caramel, and strawberry; though chocolate was by far the best). All in all, it gives diners a great alternative to what the Electric Cheetah does best, without any stripping of quality or service.

At the counter of the Choo Choo Grill recently, patrons passed around a newspaper clipping. It was the obituary of a regular of this Northeast Side institution. The cook and owner Kathy Spencer told those sitting in the tiny red restaurant at the corner of Plainfield Avenue and Leonard Street that she had stopped by the funeral home after her shift for the visitation.

Choo Choo Grill is that kind of place. It is like having breakfast or lunch with a group of friends. I’m no Choo Choo Grill regular, but I’ve been there a dozen times over the years and I’ve always felt welcome at the diner that has stood next to the train tracks for more than 60 years.

The place is tiny with a handful of stools lined up along the L-shaped bar that separates the dining area from the kitchen. There are just two booths (and signs on them say that you have to have a party of two or more to sit there).

Still, the Choo Choo Grill manages to rustle up some of the best diner grub in the area from that little kitchen. And it is cooked by Kathy right before your eyes. Stepping into the restaurant is like stepping into a time capsule. There is a rotary dial telephone on the wall that rings when take-out orders are called in. An old malt machine churns out amazing frozen drinks like the diner’s Chocolate Peanut Butter and Chocolate Vanilla Strawberry old fashioned malts ($3.99 and worth every penny).

Children love the place because of its railroad-themed décor and the amazing pancakes. Adults love it for the camaraderie the comes as a side with every dish served. Everyone loves it for the food.

I’ve eaten at the Choo Choo Grill for breakfast and lunch and the restaurant does both meals right. At breakfast, I usually go with the Rail Kill Sandwich ($4.89) with its egg, cheese and sausage. It is a greasy, delicious mess of a sandwich and I love it. I was tempted during a recent visit to try the Conductor’s Omelette ($5.89) with perfectly cooked potatoes, cheese, onion, ham and a side of rye bread. It was cooked by Kathy on the well-seasoned flat top grill right in front of me and it was perfection.

For lunch, the Choo Choo Grill is best known for its burgers. You have to be a major carnivore to try the massive one pound Legend Burger ($7.69). I’ve never had the guts to order it. They also have excellent half-pound deluxe burgers and mushroom, bacon Swiss for $4.99 each.

Don’t come to the Choo Choo Grill expecting gourmet. The food is about as unpretentious as it gets. Also, try to hit the restaurant on off hours as it can get packed in the little place during breakfast and lunch rush. That being said, I’d encourage everyone to give the Choo Choo Grill a try. If you are looking for diner food at a reasonable price, it doesn’t get much better than the Choo Choo Grill.

And who knows? You might make a few new friends along the way.