Stella’s flies back to the time of the arcade

Take one step into Stella’s Lounge, just off an alley between Commerce and Ionia streets, and you’ll know you’re not in Kansas (or Grand Rapids) anymore. The somewhat hidden location is enough to know that something unique is inside — and between the food, drinks and overall environment — Stella’s is definitely worth checking out.

I visited Stella’s a few days ago for what was supposed to be a business meeting. It was my first time eating there, and I was immediately surprised at what I saw inside. Black. And lots of it. A wall mural of neon colors, drawings…and of course, video games. Correct that — old school video games. Taking a trip down memory lane, I sat down and started to look at the menu, despite the fact that Pac-Man was calling my name.

The menu is full of vegan options, but being a meat eater, I went ahead and stuck with what was tried and true. A burger. The Government Cheese Stuffed Burger ($8.50) featured white cheddar cheese flowing out of the hamburger patty, topped with an onion ring, tomato, lettuce and onion. I also upgraded my side to their “Fries Above,” which are house-made fries with a bit of a twist.

While the wait for our food was a bit longer than I initially expected, it wasn’t too bad. And once the food did come, it was worth the wait. One bite into my burger and I couldn’t believe what I was eating. Now, I’ve had stuffed burgers before, but something just makes sense with the white cheddar cheese…it offers the perfect amount of kick into the otherwise boring burger. It was definitely worth it. The fries were pretty good too, but I feel they could’ve used a bit more seasoning. They’re breaded, so the texture was completely different than any fries I’ve had before, but it made for a great side.

While two others at my table ordered burgers (which were equally as well received), Rudy went ahead and took the vegan route. The Refuse/Resist ($6.95) featured french toast stuffed with tofu scramble and tempeh bacon. While I can’t imagine that’s anything I would whip together for a breakfast, it tasted great, especially when dipped in the maple syrup or raspberry chipotle sauce that came along with it. I was surprised Stella’s even offered a breakfast item like this, but it seemed to impress.

The service was equally pretty good, making sure to refill our mason jars up with fresh Cokes when we needed them.

There are two minor drawbacks for me, though. One, while the environment was cool, it wasn’t the biggest place in the world. There’s a bar, and then a few standalone tables, followed by a wall of chairs and booths. It’s definitely not a place to go for intimate conversations. It definitely suits the night crowd (as shown by their massive alcohol list, with over 200 different types of whiskies). Secondly, I’d like to see more meat options than just hamburgers. I know this is a vegan place, but what’s so bad about throwing a chicken sandwich on the menu in order to suit more people?

Overall, Stella’s is starting off strong as a unique bar that’s sure to please both kids and adults. It’s a step back in time for a lot of us, but for some, it’s all about seizing the day and seeing who can beat the house score on Pac-Man.

Stella's Lounge  ( Rating: out of 5 )

Where: 53 Commerce Ave., Grand Rapids
Hours: Mon. to Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Sunday noon-2 p.m.
Ambiance: Old school 80s-type bar
How much will it cost you: Average entree costs around $7.
Credit cards: All major
Alcohol: Yes
Reservations: No
Wireless Internet: Yes
Contact: (616) SHAG-444
Online: http://stellasgr.com