Shawmut Inn food is smokin’, dining room isn’t

By on May 5, 2010  |  Dinner, Lunch, NW

Atmosphere is critically important, especially when it comes to eating. And nothing can kill a restaurant’s atmosphere than cigarette smoke. That’s why I stayed away from the Shawmut Inn for more than three years. The place was filled with smoke, even in the small non-smoking sections.

So it was with great joy that I returned to the Shawmut Inn on May 1st — the day Michigan’s non-smoking law went into effect — and had what I had been missing for so long: The restaurant’s famous wet burrito.

Shawmut Inn is a low-slung place at the corner of Collindale Avenue and Lake Michigan Drive, on the route from the city to Standale and Grand Valley State University beyond. The interior is decorated in typical neighborhood bar fashion, with beer advertisements making up most of the decor. There are a few television sets, a pool table and a fair number of video games to keep the bar hopping.

It is the menu that shines. Yes, the place has its fair share of bar grub — burgers and the like — but it also excels when it comes to Tex-Mex and does a nice job with more complex dishes like its excellent baked whitefish.

At Shawmut Inn, the wet burrito is king. Available with all meat, beans and meat or all beans, the burrito is a monster. If you want great authentic Mexican food, Shawmut Inn is not the place. Go to El Granjero instead. But if you want a knock-out, Americanized, Tex-Mex burrito, it is hard to find any better than Shawmut Inn.

The burrito is packed with fillings, mostly meat and beans and a bit of lettuce and tomato. It is covered in a delicious sauce akin to ranchero and coated in a thick, gooey blanket of cheddar cheese. Ask for a side of freshly chopped white onion and jalapeno peppers for added kick.

My niece, Erin Kephart, accompanied me to Shawmut Inn for lunch and she enjoyed her chicken tacos as well.

On a slow Saturday afternoon, the service was solid. The waitress was friendly and helpful. A manager stopped by our table to make sure we were satisfied. I explained to her that I hadn’t been in Shawmut Inn for several years because of the smoke. I know some restaurants are not happy about the smoking ban, but it appears as if the Shawmut Inn is embracing it. The restaurant was to be closed the next day for a top-to-bottom cleaning to remove any hint of smoke left over.

And on the way out, the manager casually introduced us to another table of diners — a family with a few young children — who also came in because of the smoking ban. It is important for foodies who have complained about smoke in restaurants to get out and support them now. The period of transition will be the most difficult, but in the long run, a lot of great places like Shawmut Inn will thrive because of the ban.

When it comes to eating, clean air always makes things taste a bit better.

Shawmut Inn  ( Rating: out of 5 )

Where: 2802 Lake Michigan Dr. NW, Grand Rapids
Hours: Daily, 11 a.m. to midnight (later on the weekend)
Ambiance: Neighborhood bar
How much will it cost you: Entrees average between $6 and $12.
Credit cards: All major
Alcohol: Yes
Reservations: No
Contact: (616) 453-5877

  • Jeff

    I’ve always thought Shawmut had good food, but I also stayed away because of the smoke. Also, they used to have the best pizza in town, bar none. But, like so many restaurants that inexplicably remove their most solid item from the menu, Shawmut removed pizza from theirs. Sure, it took 20 minutes or so to bake (which is the reason I was given at the time for why they removed it), but so what? Pizza that good is more than worth the wait!

  • http://Stoneyforest.net Chris

    The Shawmut has great food. The wet burrito is my favorite as well. The review didn’t mention the red (mild) and green (hot) sauces, definitely ask if your waitress doesn’t mention them. But don’t shy away from the wet tostada, tacos, or enchiladas. The sandwich menu is pretty good too, especially for a lunch visit. If you haven’t tried the fried pickle spears, or friend green beans you’re missing out; they are something you must experience.

  • Snydleypike

    I miss the pizza too. But my fovorite is the Wet Tostada and an ice cold Bud Light.

  • Dave

    Hmmm, three identical reviews?

    Love the burritos but can’t remember what day they are on special. Was hopeing to come here and find out

    • Howard

      I go every Monday, Dave. It used to be 5 dollar burrito night, but now it is 6.

      Still a great deal, great neighborhood staple.