The Heritage Restaurant is one of the best-kept secrets in Grand Rapids…and one of the best bargains, especially in these economic times.

Its low profile comes from its unusual status; it’s the restaurant of the culinary school at Grand Rapids Community College. Students attending the Secchia Institute for Culinary Education staff the entire restaurant, from food preparation to table service, supervised by chef-instructors.

The result is elaborate food at rock-bottom prices, plus the near-certainty of at least one random and entertaining experience from the student trainees — what my friends and I like to dub “dinner and a show.”

My husband, Brent, and I ate there recently with another couple, Jeanine and Jeff. Reservations are a must, especially for groups, but we had no problem getting one for the night of our choice.

Parking is free but can be a bit of an issue; there’s a small lot in the bottom of the Applied Technology Center, where The Heritage is located, but it’s often full. If that’s the case, park instead in the Bostwick ramp on the west side of Ransom Avenue; the restaurant will validate that as well.

When you enter the ATC, take the elevator or stairs to the second floor; the restaurant has a big red sign above its doors. The décor is pretty bland, but there are numerous windows, all with a lovely view of the city or a rooftop garden area right outside. Tables are formally set, with a lot of silverware, glasses and plates, and cloth napkins.

The students are often a little nervous and tentative, which can be endearing — sort of like watching kids try to act like grownups. You kind of want to laugh, but you also want to pat them on the hand and tell them to relax. The student seating us tried out a little joke about “saving the best for last” as he handed us the menus first, then the wine list.

It featured about a dozen reds, a dozen whites (including several Michigan wines), a half-dozen sparkling wines and another half-dozen beers (including three from Founders in Grand Rapids). Prices are again rock-bottom: most glasses were $3.99-$4.99, and bottles were around $20. I opted for a $4.99 glass of Fenn Valley capriccio, a dry red that was delicious — very fruity and drinkable.

The real bargain is the entrée price, which ranges from $16.99-$22.99 and includes a choice of appetizer, soup or salad, to encourage you to try different courses and give the students a lot of experience. The menu also changes each semester, which makes repeat visits fun.

I opted for the saltimbocca, with the mock eel for starters, while Brent chose the masaman curry, to be preceded by the artichoke tarte tatin and creamy “creamless” fennel bisque. Jeanine also went with the saltimbocca, while Jeff ordered the “three little pigs” (barbecue grilled pork tenderloin and braised pork belly served with macaroni and cheese with crispy pancetta), and both chose the blue cornmeal-crusted chile relleno for their appetizer.

The Heritage always does a complimentary amuse bouche — a tiny pre-appetizer. Tonight it was a cube of battered, fried tofu dusted with chile spices — delicious and unique, although Brent, who likes subtle flavors, found the spices a little overpowering.

Also delicious is the bread selection, although we were disappointed that there was no bread cart. (On previous visits, a server has wheeled up a cart with six different kinds of homemade breads to choose from.) But the basket they brought us had a nice selection — a white baguette, a whole-grain-looking one and an herbed one. There were also two kinds of butter, although when we asked the server what kind they were, she shrugged and said, “Dunno. I think one’s honey.” Oooh-kay.

A word of warning about the appetizers: They are huge. My pile of mock eel filled a dinner plate, while the chile rellenos were at least 4 inches high, laying on their sides. Both were wonderful.

The mock eel is a house specialty that’s always on the menu, and you really must order at least once. It doesn’t sound very appealing — “crispy shiitake mushrooms uniquely cut and served with a sweet soy sauce flavored with garlic and ginger” — but after a friend ordered it and I had a sample, I was a convert. It’s like no other dish I’ve ever seen, and it’s incredibly delicious — crunchy, sweet, savory. Brent and Jeff both hate mushrooms, and they thought it tasted great.

The chile relleno was also fantastic, with a great crust and oozing cheese. I’ve never been a fan of cooked peppers, but after a bite of Jeanine’s, I’m rethinking my position.

The tarte tatin was a bit of a letdown. A puff pastry bottom crust is always problematic — how do you keep it from being soggy and tough? — and this was no exception. Strange as it sounds, it also needed more of the garlic ice cream topping; otherwise, Brent said, it was kind of bland. The fennel bisque we shared was excellent, however — unbelievably rich for being “creamless.”

After the appetizers came a complimentary intermezzo: cordial glasses of citrus sorbet, with champagne poured on top — very refreshing. At this point, we also enjoyed hilarious interlude #2: The servers got their timing a bit off, and one showed up with the intermezzo while our table was still loaded with appetizer dishes. Instead of retiring discreetly, she stood there with her tray, said, “Huh,” and stared at us. I do think she was waiting for us to suggest a solution. Fortunately, the other server arrived just then to clear.

Brent has been pursuing Indian cooking for several months now, and his curry entree was perfection. Jeff’s “three little pigs” were also fantastic, although, as he said, a wellness nightmare, with mac-and-cheese that definitely wasn’t creamless, and succulent meats.

I had the only disappointment: My saltimbocca was dry and a little chewy — definitely overdone — although Jeanine said hers was just right. We both agreed that the sweet corn potato gnocchi were a waste — tough and flavorless.

The restaurant is great about leftovers — they’re wrapped in foil in the classic swan shape — and by saving some of our appetizers and entrees, we had room for dessert. The cart is always a treat; there’s usually six to eight to choose from, plus apples Normandy made tableside. (I’ve never gotten it because it seems to take a long time to make, but the smell is heavenly.)

A major improvement they could make would be to have a dessert menu along with the cart; it’s far too hard to keep them all straight, especially recited by students who often aren’t great with adjectives or public speaking.

Jeff and I both chose the pear crisp, which was actually a flan in puff pastry with four poached pears, while Brent and Jeanine both ordered some sort of chocolate concoction that was sinfully rich, with three chocolate crisps sandwiching a ganache and chocolate ice cream on the side. The pear crisp was fine but nothing special. The chocolate dessert, on the other hand, was almost overwhelming. One bite was so loaded, it totally satisfied me; there’s no way I could have eaten the whole thing, and even Brent, a sugar fiend, left part of it.

Jeanine also ordered coffee, which is always a fun experience; it comes with accompaniments of whipped heavy cream, orange rind and chocolate.

After all of that, and including the “buy 1 entrée get 1 free” coupon from the Entertainment book, Brent’s and my bill came to $46.72, including tip — staggeringly cheap for a five-course meal for two.

A couple of caveats: Because of the unusual nature of the restaurant — it is a classroom, after all — you have to be willing to overlook some things that would be unacceptable in a regular restaurant. Hours are limited: The latest dinner reservation allowed is 7:15 p.m., and if you linger much past 9, the students, understandably eager to be done with class for the night, might begin to hurry you along.

They also sometimes run out of entrees, especially toward the end of the semester — once, on a previous visit with Jeanine and Jeff, my husband ordered the lamb; then when Jeff ordered it as well, the server said with a straight face, “I’m sorry, sir, we are fresh out of lamb. Can I interest you in something else?”

However, if you’re a fine food fiend, I think you’ll find these to be minor inconveniences, especially when the bill arrives.

The Heritage (Rating: ★★★★ 1/2)
Where: 151 Fountain St. NE (Applied Technology Center, GRCC)
Hours: Lunch from Tuesday-Friday 11:15 a.m.-12:45 p.m., Dinner from 5:30-7:15 p.m. Closed during school holidays; check website for open dates.
Ambiance: Nice, although rather bland, great views of the city
How much will it cost you: Lunch entrees top out at $8.25. Dinner entrees are $16.99-$22.99 and include choice of appetizer, soup or salad.
Credit cards: All major
Alcohol: Wine and beer
Smoke-free: Yes
Reservations: Essential
Contact: (616) 234-3700
Online: http://www.grcc.edu/heritage