Barski: More than just brewski

For a city slicker like me, it is easy to get lost when you head into northern Michigan. The smell of the pine trees, the call of the owls and the sweet breezes can lull me into a stupor.

So I thought I might be seeing a mirage when I came upon Barski, a small bar and restaurant along busy M-37 in Baldwin. I really thought I was dreaming when I found out the chef here — yes, a real, honest-to-God chef in Baldwin — was none other than Steve Troupe, who worked as a chef at San Chez before opening Barski.

Don’t look for tapas at Barski. This is pub grub plus. There is nothing dainty about Barski’s menu. In other words, this is not the kind of place with a tiny dollop of food in the center of a big plate with a schmear of some reduction sauce. This place is about big burgers, comfort food and a bit of real-deal Polish thrown in for good measure. But just because the portions are big doesn’t mean Barski isn’t a bit gourmet.

The place takes the common and adds uncommon touches. For example, you can order a Monte Cristo sandwich, but you’ll find it comes with a habanero-raspberry sauce. Chili cheese fries are on the menu too, but Barski does it with venison chili. Along with the more common (yet equally delicious) desserts, diners will also find creme brulee. Good luck finding that somewhere else in Baldwin.

A couple of their more interesting appetizers are their deep fried pickles and their blue cheese fritters. I had the Barski burger, which comes with smoked ham, gouda cheese and a fried egg on it. It comes with your choice of a Kaiser roll or a pretzel bun. Both are delicious but I recommend the pretzel bun. They also serve a wonderful portobello mushroom sandwich with roasted red peppers that is one of the best I have ever tasted.

Some of their main dishes include pan-fried walleye with red onion, capers, and a white wine butter sauce. I also wanted to try the hand-cut rib eye with bourbon pepper butter. Then there is the Polish food. They have juicy Polish kielbasa, pierogi like a West Side grandma makes and kapusta that will make your mouth water.

It’s a cool little place too, somewhere you could get comfortable. The building is a nicely redone A-frame with a casual, relaxed atmosphere. They have several televisions for the sports and news fans, a pool table and, on occasion, live music. Behind the bar is a fenced in area for dining outdoors, playing some horseshoes or maybe a late night fire.  The staff is friendly and works very hard to take care of your needs.

The bar carries a large selection of beer and liquor — everything from Strohs and Pabst Blue Ribbon to wash down the Polish food to Arcadia Scotch Ale and Oberon to go with some of the gourmet items.  Overall, Barski has good prices and a good selection.

It is a little out of the way, but worth a visit if you are in the area, need a little road trip or are on your way North and need a good place for lunch, dinner or some drinks and snacks  Check it out when you have the time. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Barski  ( Rating: out of 5 )

Where: 4016 S. M-37, Baldwin
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday-Saturday; 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday
Ambiance: Casual bar
How much will it cost you: Between $10 and $20
Credit cards: All major
Alcohol: Yes
Reservations: No
Contact: (231) 745-6015
Online: barskim37@live.com